For the past 16 years, CRM’s resident technical editor and ace mechanic Matt Wiley has provided readers (and staffers) with invaluable information on maintaining our rides. Matt’s decades in the motorcycle industry – whether we’re taking racing paddocks or as atop technician for So Cal suspension experts Race Tech – has provided him with endless reserves of practical knowledge on keeping two-wheelers in top operating condition. With the days rapidly growing shorter and fall closing in, Matt laid our a few very useful tips for winterizing your bike so it will be ready to hit the roads once warmer weather appears in spring. This is a brief sample of his Workshop Files column from Cafe Racer magazine’s current issue and we’ll bring more updates your way as Old Man winter resumes his chilly work around the country. Take care of your bike now, so it will continue taking care of you come spring.
By Technical Editor Matt Wiley
Winterization Tips for Storage Success
It’s creeping up upon us, perhaps the weather has already changed in your location unless you’re among the fortunate who live outside of winter’s icy grip. Storing motorcycles properly is important, be it due to winter conditions that prohibit riding, or your two-wheeled baby living off-site where it cannot be consistently ridden year-round. Storage is a necessary evil and how it’s performed can make a significant difference in ease, time and cost of putting your machine back on the road come spring.
First on the to-do list is the fuel system. Late-model fuel injected motorcycles are more tolerant (may the God’s of combustion be merciful to you when FI is not tolerant…) of longer periods of non-use than carbureted bikes. However carbureted models are very sensitive to a month or more of non-use (thank you, Ethanol gasoline.) Your best option is taking a ride to the gas station before putting your machine away for the winter months. If non-ethanol fuel if available in your area, this can really make a difference. Add fresh fuel and stabilizer to whatever’s already in your bike’s tank and the ride home from the pumps allows the stabilizer to mix with the gas and work its way into the rest of the fuel system. Filling your tank to the brim eliminates tank rusting due to cold-weather condensation. Some riders prefer Marvel Mystery Oil which is fine, but I prefer Blendzall Gold Label 485.
Upon arrival home or at the storage location, lube the chain (if applicable) while it’’s warm for best results. Concentrate on the inside edges where the link plates overlap, wiping off any excess lube then allow time for the lube to setup from the liquid state into the thicker, grease-like final state that’s less prone to fling off when allowed to setup prior to riding.
While the engine is still warm, change the oil. One of the jobs of your motorcycle’s engine oil (beyond lubrication) is cleaning your engine and picking up the junk generated by normal wear and tear along with various contaminants generated by the combustion process. Leaving dirty oil in the engine is hard on seals, gaskets, plastics and such as well as promoting corrosion. Sort of like storing laundry: fold it up and put it away dirty now and it stinks worse later… Fold it up clean and it will be sweet-smelling in the spring!
Other fluids to consider are brake fluid and coolant in liquid-cooled models. Both these fluids are Glycol-based and deteriorate over time, losing their effectiveness and eventually becoming corrosive. Semi-annual changes are recommended as most of the water pump failures I’ve encountered – as well as sticky or frozen calipers – were the result of old contaminated fluid.
Once servicing is completed, a thorough wash and wax of your ride is in order. Just like dirty engine oil contributes to internal corrosion, road grime, bug guts, grease and such hastens the damage to surface finishes, be it the paint work, wheels and the engine externals. Storing a clean machine contributes to a longer-lasting, better-looking surface finish all over. There are very good, easy-to-use spray products to protect and beautify paint, plastic, chrome, wheels, rubber, etc. as onto your machine corrosion will creep!
Setup whatever your battery storage procedure may be whether it’s installed using a maintenance charger or removed from the motorcycle to a warm location. The latter is best if your bike is stored in extremely cold temperatures. ‘Smart’ type chargers that both charge and maintain your battery are the best option as standard chargers can be hard on the battery in the long term.
